Wednesday, July 26, 2006

Argeeleh Adventure


One of the most wonderful gourmet experiences is to have a meal in someone else's home. There is nothing else quite like the love and attention most people place on cooking for friends and family. I am blessed to have friends from a variety of backgrounds and truly enjoy the opportunity to sample cuisines from around the world and immerse myself in the experience.

Last Sunday, I got to join my friend Nancy's family for what she termed, "A Big Fat Lebanese Birthday Party". This involved several dozen of her relatives and an enormous buffet of Middle Eastern delicacies. I volunteered to be the photographer for the day as a chance to meet everyone and capture this fun afternoon (btw: My flickr sight is clogged with 50+ photos from the party...so stick to the links on this one!)

Her mother spent the entire afternoon in the kitchen! She only left once...to watch her grandson open his birthday gifts.

The menu included...

Boiled fava beans lightly salted and served with lemon wedges. I think this is the Lebanese equivalent of Edamame.

Lubia: Green beans and tomatos. I don't have a recipe, but it appears that the tomatoes and green beans are stewed and then chilled before serving.

Fatoosh: The super salad of cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, a tart vinaigrette with sumac and topped with fried pita chips.

Tabooli: A great salad of parsley, tomatoes, cracked barley and another great vinaigrette.

Hommos: Chick peas, garlic, tahini, and olive oil blended into a heavenly spread.

Shish Tawook: Mostly grilled chicken that was marinated in tahini

Shish Kafta: My Wasband refers to these as "donkey dicks". Not a very nice way of describing such a scrumptious blend of ground lamb and spices, shaped according to his description, and baked to meatloaf consistency.

Fatayer: These are little square or triangle shaped pies that hold either ground and seasoned lamb, spinach and pine nuts, or cheese. I love them. Often they are lined up like little soldiers on a serving tray, which makes them look particularly smart, and they are delicious.

Rice: My friend's family serves their rice pilaf with corn in it. Yummy.

Baked Kibbe: More ground lamb shaped into mini footballs and fried. Somehow they managed to conceal a few pine nuts in the center of each little orb.

It didn't end with the buffet. Once dinner seemed to be officially over, the pastries started flying on large silver trays...variations of baklava and others that I couldn't name but had no trouble trying...then came the Turkish Coffee...served from small pots into demi-tasse.


That's when they broke out the Argeelah. Each pipe was stuffed with fresh tobacco leaves that had been stewed in rose water and/or apple essence. It took me a few tries to learn how to puff on the Argeelah without inhaling the smoke and choking. Once I got it, I was unstoppable!

I, of course, had to pause to ask for a lesson in Argeelah etiquette. I learned:

- Hold the hose and mouthpiece with your right hand, as the left hand is viewed as being unclean in some cultures.
- When passing the mouthpiece, pass it with your right hand, and make sure the face of the mouthpiece is facing you. If the mouthpiece is facing the recipient, this can be viewed as a sign of disrespect.
- When lighting the coal, hold it in midair with the tongs. It should spark for a few seconds. After the coal has finished sparking place it back down on top of the tobacco.

Got it? So there I was, sipping Turkish Coffee and joyously puffing on the Argeelah. If I could have learned a little Arabic you would have come upon the scene and thought I was part of this wonderful family.

Just when I thought I couldn't take on anything else, trays of fresh cut fruit arrived at the table. It's summer, so they had watermelon, pineapple and yellow cherries.

As the sun started to set behind the house, I departed with a flurry of hearty handshakes and cheek kisses (Left, Right, Left! Three quick kisses in each good-bye) feeling very full and very loved.

The good news: The family owns the Middle East Market on 2222 North Reynolds Road. Many of Nancy's family members work there and cook there. I will be using the Market to cater a meal for one of my customers next week and reliving this fabulous, sensuous experience - minus the Argeelah.

N.B., I am not insensitive to the timing of this article and the current crisis in Lebanon. Keep in mind that the afternoon included intimate stories from one of the family members present who had to flee the country with her children as the military conflict began. In addition, there was an ongoing broadcast of a Lebanese news station via satellite television.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/glasscitygourmet/199065405/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/glasscitygourmet/199065408/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/glasscitygourmet/199066853/

“Glass City Gourmet” is a chronicle of one woman's attempt to cook, eat, diet and entertain with both flair and whimsy while based in Toledo, Ohio. I encourage you to read on as the "Glass City Gourmet" attempts grand recipes, samples locally owned restaurants, visits indigenous markets and humbly pursues her quest to be formally recognized as the official "Glass City Gourmet".

Thursday, July 06, 2006

Red, White & Blue Breakfast




As long as I can remember, my family has celebrated the July 4 holiday with a "Red, White & Blue Breakfast". Complete with hand flags and other table accessories, the "Red, White & Blue Breakfast" was something that my older brother and I took very seriously.

Early on my Dad made the decision that bananas would be the only means of portraying white in breakfast foods. Red could be raspberries or strawberries. Blue was only blueberries. But the decision to forego whipped cream in favor of bananas was out of respect for me...a true banana lover.

Some years, we had pancakes filled with each of the three patriotic fruits. Like the crisp lines of Old Glory, it is not appropriate to mix different fruit in a single pancake. One strawberry pancake. One blueberry pancake. One banana pancake. The three were stacked high and held in place with an American Flag toothpick. Other years, we ventured to waffles. Same rules for mixing fruit. At one point, we hit the crepe craze and my Dad used the back side of a Revereware saute pan as a crepe maker. We quickly determined that crepes were somehow un-American, and went back to the pancake and waffle staples in future years.

Decorations were an essential part of the holiday. In addition to the standard flag waving outside our home, my Mom scouted for table favors, placemats, napkins and other accessories to strike a festive mood. One year, after seeing the movie 1776, my brother and I decided to create our own fife and drum band using an empty paper towel roll as a fife and a coffee can as a drum. We both wore the appropriate colors, including a bright red pair of swim goggles on my brother and a hand towel as a head scarf. We marched through the kitchen to entertain our parents. I will try to find that photo for this article. It is priceless!

Another year, I think it was the year that Christopher Reeve played Superman in the blockbuster movie, I dressed up as "Super Four" and jumped off of our kitchen countertops wearing a blue towel as a cape. Again, using items around the house, a costume was born.

I still look forward to the "Red, White and Blue" breakfast and hope that at some point I can pass this festive tradition on to my niece and nephew who live far away from me.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/glasscitygourmet/186740810/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/glasscitygourmet/186740809/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/glasscitygourmet/186740811/

“Glass City Gourmet” is a chronicle of one woman's attempt to cook, eat, diet and entertain with both flair and whimsy while based in Toledo, Ohio. I encourage you to read on as the "Glass City Gourmet" attempts grand recipes, samples locally owned restaurants, visits indigenous markets and humbly pursues her quest to be formally recognized as the official "Glass City Gourmet".

Thursday, June 22, 2006

Cool as a cup of cucumber dill soup!


Humidity is the one thing that characterizes summer in Northwest Ohio. Hot, sunny, sticky days. Those from the South may laugh at these claims, but everything is relative. I grew up in a house without air conditioning. 90 degrees with 80 percent humidity for at least a full month. I remember my family going to the movies or just hanging out in the freezer aisle of a local grocery store to cool off. I also have laughable memories of trying to get to sleep with the rumbling sound of an attic fan and an ice cube melting in my belly button.

It's late June in Toledo, and we're already there. Thank goodness for central air.

Tonight I'm meeting up with my book group and bringing a tureen of Cold Cucumber Soup. Once again, this is someone else's recipe. This time from the Moosewood Cookbook: A classic vegetarian cookbook published in 1977 by Mollie Katzen and friends. Published by 10 Speed Press, it is "compiled, edited, illustrated and hand-lettered by Mollie Katzen". The worn, dog eared pages and Mollie's tidy handwriting make it feel like a gift from a friend.

Chilled Cucumber Yogurt Soup

4 cups peeled, seeded and chopped cucumber
2 cups water
2 cups yogurt*
1 clove garlic
several fresh mint leaves
1 tbs. honey
1 1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. dill weed
chopped scallions or chives

Puree everything together in the blender (save the scallions for garnish).

I use 2 whole cloves of garlic, 1 tbs. fresh dillweed (instead of 1/4 tsp. dried), and use Fage yogurt for this recipe. It isn't too big of a deviation from the original, but I like the extra creaminess that comes from using Fage and I can never get enough garlic in anything.

I typically ladle the soup into chilled mugs or bowls and garnish with a whole mint leaf and chopped up scallions and dill.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/glasscitygourmet/186744341/

“Glass City Gourmet” is a chronicle of one woman's attempt to cook, eat, diet and entertain with both flair and whimsy while based in Toledo, Ohio. I encourage you to read on as the "Glass City Gourmet" attempts grand recipes, samples locally owned restaurants, visits indigenous markets and humbly pursues her quest to be formally recognized as the official "Glass City Gourmet".

Thursday, June 15, 2006

Variety is The Spice of Life


A spice rack says more about a cook than a trip to the medicine cabinet says about a bachelor.

My new kitchen is a galley kitchen. There just isn't enough space in the cabinets to store my spice jars so that I may read them and grab what I need in a hurry. Elevation between rows is critical, and the built in shelves that can't be moved are a real hindrance.

I ended up putting my spice rack on a counter, next to the stove. Handy for cooking, but probably a bit intimidating for visitors. I am proud to report that there are 39 jars of herbs, spices and other seasonings on this rack. Starting with Whole Alspice (back left) and ending with Fancy White Pepper (front right), this is what I affectionately refer to as the "A" Team.

The "A" Team ranges from the ordinary: Basil, Rosemary, Thyme, and Parsley Flakes. To the obscure: Spanish Mancha Saffron Strands, Ground Moroccan Coriander and Ground Szechuan Pepper. The Moroccan Coriander label will tempt you with, "..hints of orange, anise and cumin lend depth to savory and sweet recipes". The Saffron Strands are worthless without a hot bath. I learned in a cooking class at The Greenbrier that the best way to cull both flavor and color from Saffron is to put a splash of white wine in the hot water. It works. I've used the Saffron water in Milanese Risotto and as a stock for cooking white rice.

I've read that you shouldn't keep spices for more than a few months. I do my best, on occasion, to clean out the jars and replace the contents with more freshly dried herbs. Yet, the fact remains that these are no more than dehydrated plant life with no stamped expiration dates. So I ask myself, how stale could they really get?

There are three members of the "A" Team that don't sit on the rack: 1) The olive oil. I keep mine carefully stored in a hand painted glass bottle with a whiskey pour top. I feel very talented pouring without a drip. 2) My rock salt and whole peppercorn grinders. This is yet another affectation for a wanna-be chef and 3) A small ceramic canister of kosher salt that has a Barbie sized wooden spoon attached to it.

Then there is the "B" Team. These are stored in the cabinet above the counter. They include things like pine nuts, sun dried tomatoes, sesame seeds, dehydrated oyster and shiitake mushrooms and baking essentials. These are all great to have around when you don't feel like shopping but want to whip up something really tasty. However, I don't reach for these things every day, so they are stored off the counter. The "B" Team also includes spices I don't want anyone to know that I have...

No, I'm not talking about Spanish Fly here.

I'm talking about pre-fab rubs, pastes and marinades (a.k.a "RPMs"). A dear friend of mine, who is an outstanding cook, refers to RPMs as "cheaters". On occasion, the Glass City Gourmet will grab a jar of the Trader Joe's "21 Seasoning Salute" instead of creating her own masterpiece. Ditto for "Old Bay Seasoning", "Herbs de Provence", and the ever popular "Lawry's Salt". Sometimes, I'll even buy an overpriced marinade that was mass produced for a celebrity chef. No matter how good, or how beautifully packaged it may be...it will remain part of the "B" Team. When I use it in a recipe and take it to a someone's house, I always add a pinch of something to try and disguise it. I try not to admit that some portion of my offering came from a jar. I can't bring myself to do it. I hope you are thinking, "I'm sure that doesn't happen very often, does it?". Not really. I'm not very good at being dishonest. Even if I tried to lie about my ingredients, my closest friends would be able to identify the offending "cheater" and lovingly give me a hard time for pretending it was my own creation.

"Cheaters" aside, the beauty of my spice rack is it's efficiency. With all this on hand, it is a rare occasion that I need to buy spices for any recipe I might choose to prepare.

If variety truly is the spice of life, the Glass City Gourmet is one spicy gal.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/glasscitygourmet/171652660/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/glasscitygourmet/171652661/


“Glass City Gourmet” is a chronicle of one woman's attempt to cook, eat, diet and entertain with both flair and whimsy while based in Toledo, Ohio. I encourage you to read on as the "Glass City Gourmet" attempts grand recipes, samples locally owned restaurants, visits indigenous markets and humbly pursues her quest to be formally recognized as the official "Glass City Gourmet".

Sunday, June 11, 2006

Bang! Bang! Chicken Salad


Bang! Bang! Chicken Salad is a close cousin of Dan Dan Noodles, a dish named for the sound of Chinese street vendors banging their metal pots to attract attention to themselves and sell their noodle dishes. If you like the Ameri-Thai combination of peanuts and chilis as well as the summer flavor of fresh mint and cilantro, you will love this recipe.

I have to admit, this is a derivative of a fine recipe by Nigella Lawson from her cookbook, FEAST: Food to Celebrate Life. If you don't own it, buy it. She's hip, she's smart, she's beautiful and she inherently understands the connection between food, love and sensuality. Although I've never heard her say anything about sex, some of her photos are downright erotic.

On to the recipe:

Bang! Bang! Salad Dressing

2 tsp. peanut oil
3 tbs. smooth peanut butter
2 tbs. Chinese chili bean sauce*
1 tbs. superfine sugar
1 tbs. light soy sauce**
1 1/2 tbs. Chinese black vinegar***
2 tbs. water

*A blend of chili and fermented broad beans, a.k.a Toban Djan, not likely to be available at your local mega-grocery chain. Get to an Asian grocery store. Look at the labels carefully, it's easy to accidentally pick up "bean sauce", which does not taste the same.
** I prefer to use light soy sauce. It contains less sodium than regular soy sauce. You will get the sodium from other ingredients anyway...
***Lea & Perrins Worcestershire Sauce is an OK substitute.

For the salad:
3 c. cold shredded chicken (About 4-5 half breasts)
1 medium head of iceberg lettuce (6 cups finely shredded)
1/2 c. fresh cilantro (chopped)
1/2 c. fresh mint (chopped)
4 oz. cucumber
4 scallions
1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds

To make the dressing: heat the oil in a small saucepan to release the peanut flavor. Let it cool and pour it into a medium sized bowl. While it is cooling, put the saucepan back on a low temperature burner, with whatever peanut oil remains, and add the sesames to toast them to a golden brown color. Cool the toasted sesames on a plate and store in an airtight container or plastic bag. Now that the oil is cool, you can add all of the other dressing ingredients (not the toasted sesames!) and stir or whisk it until it is smooth. Refrigerate. Will still be good for at least a week.

Bake the chicken breasts until they are full cooked. Let them cool. Then use the back of a fork to shred them. Toss in a small bowl with 4-5 tbs. of the Bang! Bang! dressing and store until ready to serve the salad.

Arrange the shredded lettuce over the base of a large flat plate, or in a deep and wide salad bowl. Sprinkle chopped cilantro and mint everywhere. Drip 4-5 tablespoons of the Bang! Bang! dressing over the lettuce and herbs. Place the shredded chicken mix as a row up the center of the lettuce and herb mix. Peel, seed and chop up the cucumber into matchstick sized pieces. Prepare the scallions by removing most of the bland green part and the roots at the white end. Then slice each scallion in half, the long way, and slice again and again until you have shreds of white scallion. Spread scallions and cucumbers over the salad. Drizzle the remaining dressing over the salad and sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds.

...Bang! Bang! It's ready to present to your family or guests. Show everyone your glorious creation, toss and serve.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/glasscitygourmet/171652658/

“Glass City Gourmet” is a chronicle of one woman's attempt to cook, eat, diet and entertain with both flair and whimsy while based in Toledo, Ohio. I encourage you to read on as the "Glass City Gourmet" attempts grand recipes, samples locally owned restaurants, visits indigenous markets and humbly pursues her quest to be formally recognized as the official "Glass City Gourmet".

Saturday, June 10, 2006

Bistro Wasabi

Bistro Wasabi
3150 Chappel Drive
Perrysburg, OH 43551
419-872-1988

Bistro Wasabi is an oasis of local sophistication in the midst of a synthetic culture shopping area. Tucked on a side street of "Levis Commons", Bistro Wasabi offers an eclectic mix of Japanese sushi house favorites, Asian fusion creations, and the Toledo staple of steaks and chicken. Chef John Kim, formerly of the Toledo based Fujiyama, shines in this Zen-like ambiance.

During my first visit, I dined with "the girls" on assorted Maki rolls ($5-$18 per roll), the seaweed salad ($6), and a spring roll ($10). The seaweed salad was a delicate mix of seaweed, sesame seeds, chopped peanuts, curly & crispy rice noodles and a gentle rice wine vinaigrette. My dining companions were surprised, but pleased, with the addition of small pieces of red onions in this salad. The spring roll, wrapped in rice paper, was served chilled and featured julienned vegetables with shrimp, as well as two unique dipping sauces. One was a spicy, vibrant red Southwest chipotle pepper sauce and the other a hot and sweet combination of orange marmalade and chili peppers. If this is how Wasabi Bistro does fusion...I want more!

I returned within the week for lunch with other friends. This time I ordered the "3-Course Lunch Express" ($15/four options) to sample more of the sushi. The miso soup was pleasant, the Asian salad luscious, and the nagiri zushi did not disappoint me. While I prefer to eat sashimi as hira giri (big, perfectly cut, unadorned pieces of fish), the nagiri zushi alternative was excellent (Nagiri zushi literally means "squeezed sushi" and is sashimi pressed onto a small, oval rice ball often with a small amount of wasabi between the rice and the fish.). I am anxious to return and see if hira giri may be requested.

My companions ordered the Teriyaki sampler ($9) appetizer that included marinated and grilled skewers of chicken, beef and shrimp and a perfect cylinder of the richest mashed potatoes I have ever tasted. Although I detest mashed potatoes in fine dining establishments, the heavy cream and butter ladden treat on our table sent my chopsticks flying while I used my fork.

In the interest of additional research, I also sampled the "Sosun Steak Hoggie" ($9), as well as the Sapporo maki roll ($6) and spicy tuna rolls ($10) on the plates of my friends. The hoggie tasted like a Teriyaki version of a Philly cheese steak and certainly offers an acceptable alternative to those who don't care for sushi.

On both visits, my friends noticed that the menu is void of iced green tea or the ubiquitous, non-alcoholic "ginger-beer" favored in Asian fusion restaurants. I inquired with the owner, who assured me these options are being investigated. However, the restaurant features a full bar with both an ample wine and sake list.

As for the decor, it is a simple combination of hardwood floors, Japanese screens, and contemporary furniture. With museum white walls, a zinc bar and subtle blue neon accents, it has a "Sex and the City" feel. The space is extremely loud when the restaurant is full. The walled off sushi bar may offer a more quiet place for intimate dining. Although my table mates on both visits felt that the mostly black and white interior could use a bigger splash of color and some cieling or wall fabric to absorb some of the noise, everyone agreed that Bistro Wasabi is a welcome addition to an otherwise predictable mix of chain restaurants.

“Glass City Gourmet” is a chronicle of one woman's attempt to cook, eat, diet and entertain with both flair and whimsy while based in Toledo, Ohio. I encourage you to read on as the "Glass City Gourmet" attempts grand recipes, samples locally owned restaurants, visits indigenous markets and humbly pursues her quest to be formally recognized as the official "Glass City Gourmet".

Wednesday, May 24, 2006

Buried in Boxes

The sound of packing tape unrolling is a squeak, squeak, squeak. Sometimes I forget to leave myself a neat end and then it's nearly impossible to get the roll started again. Maybe it's old tape that got left in a hot trunk for too long, but when the piece I'm trying to use sticks to the roll...the trouble begins. I find myself using a fingernail to pry up a corner and ending up with shreds of tape rolling off of the dispenser after I've lost a clean end. Almost like an oversized roll of toilet paper in a public bathroom, it's hard to recover from shreds of tape. Around and around you wind the darned thing and you still get shreds, or a triangular piece of tape that won't spread to the full width of the roll.

Tonight I'm packing up cookbooks. This is as painful as packing the kitchen was. So many memories of recipes gone well and total failures... There are the two three ring binders with the original Craig Claiborne newsletters. My grandmother saved every issue that was ever published. I wonder how they'd do on Antiques Road Show? Next is my paperback Moosewood Cookbook, literally printed from handwritten recipes, that is always accompanied by The Enchanted Broccoli Forrest, its cousin with more sophisticated artwork and typeface. The Joy of Cooking is still a handy reference tool for comfort foods like tuna noodle casserole, homemade lemonade, and chicken divan. I often use it when I'm crafting my own recipes just to confirm oven temperature or cooking time for more standard fare. The Silver Palate Cookbook is totally tattered. So many great recipes for entertaining in this one. Many things that I can whip up early in the day and then pop into the oven right before the guests arrive. There is a rice dish with lots of chopped vegetables, slivered almonds, raisins, chicken stock and cinnamin that goes great with lamb and creates a welcoming smell when guests arrive.

I also have the original New York Times International Cookbook, another book snatched from grandmother, this one is personally inscribed by Craig Claiborne...the spine is cracked, the pages yellowed, and there are identifiable stains next to certain well loved recipes (think: curry stains near the curry recipes).

I'm so sentimental when it comes to my kitchen and its essential tools. I could talk about these cookbooks and favorite recipes within them for hours...another day. Back to my boxes, please.

“Glass City Gourmet” is a chronicle of one woman's attempt to cook, eat, diet and entertain with both flair and whimsy while based in Toledo, Ohio. I encourage you to read on as the "Glass City Gourmet" attempts grand recipes, samples locally owned restaurants, visits indigenous markets and humbly pursues her quest to be formally recognized as the official "Glass City Gourmet".

Tuesday, May 09, 2006

Wrapped for Shipping

I'm moving into a new space. As excited as I am to start another chapter of my life, packing boxes is always emotional. It's probably no surprise that I started in the kitchen. I need to make sure that everything I want and need is ready to go with me. Certain pieces, left unused recently, bring back great memories.

Last night I packed up my cast iron skillet. This heavily seasoned piece was a gift from my grandmother. A French blue 11" Le Creuset skillet with a lid, the set probably weighs ten pounds. I'm not sure how she used it. But on one of her own moves, she offered it to me and I accepted without any hesitation. Right before the gift, I had come back from a trip to the Greenbrier and attended a cooking class that featured salmon fillets seared on a cast iron skillet. I couldn't wait to use hers for the first time. The salmon was marvelous! Shortly thereafter, Hunter brought back rainbow trout from Colorado and they were equally delicious. Before packing it away, I gave the skillet a final and tender wipe with a few drops of vegetable oil for good luck and added protection during the move.

I also can't part with my Toaster Oven. I'm not even sure that this piece of equipment is legal anymore. There's nothing better for making a baked potato with a really crispy skin than a Toaster Oven. I also love to heat up pita sandwiches in it. Cheese always melts gently while the pita becomes super crispy. This is something that microwaves can't do. Ditto for using the "top brown only" feature on a tuna melt. The tuna salad stays cool, the muffin stays crisp, but the cheese oozes. Have you ever had a decent tuna melt that came out of a microwave? I didn't think so. There is nothing more gratifying than serving someone a treat from the Toaster Oven...especially, someone skeptical of the device.

Enough typing for now as I go back to my boxes...

“Glass City Gourmet” is a chronicle of one woman's attempt to cook, eat, diet and entertain with both flair and whimsy while based in Toledo, Ohio. I encourage you to read on as the "Glass City Gourmet" attempts grand recipes, samples locally owned restaurants, visits indigenous markets and humbly pursues her quest to be formally recognized as the official "Glass City Gourmet".

Wednesday, May 03, 2006

Dinner at Rosie's Italian Grille

Rosie's Italian Grille
606 North McCord Road
Toledo, OH 43615


Since 1983, the Barone family has operated Rosie's in Toledo. Originally, a family style pizzeria known for "hot mamma bread" and rectangular thick crust pizza, Rosie's had three locations and even a frozen foods line in local grocery stores. Times have changed. While the original pizzeria on Sylvania Avenue remains Rosie's Italian Grille on McCord Road takes a swift turn from pizzeria to trattoria as executive Chef, Chris DeWart, attempts to create a more authentic Italian menu in Toledo.

For purists, Toledo offers few options for true Italian cuisine. Chef DeWart comes to Rosie's from Ciao and a stint as an executive chef for Dana Corporation. The menu at Rosie's Italian Grille features Florida grouper and yellow tail snapper with a choice of eight tempting preparations. I chose the grouper ($23) with "tomato caper salsa", as it seemed closest to Mediterranean cuisine. It was both light and delicious. Pasta's range from baked rigatoni ($14) to a seafood with mushrooms pasta ($20) featuring shrimp, scallops, fresh mushrooms, asparagus, capers and white wine. Rosie's still allows diners to choose their own pasta shape to accompany the selection of sauces. Carne includes a stuffed bell pepper with an undefined "meat blend", rice and tomato sauce ($16) as well as New Zealand baby lamp chops ($22), and a 14 oz. veal porterhouse ($27).

My party was particularly pleased with the Caprese salad appetizer and noted that the mozzerella was as fresh as the sliced tomatoes and basil leaves. We inhaled the Zingerman's bread on the table, eagerly mopping up the balsamic vinaigrette remaining on our Caprese plate. While many of the entrees are creative departures from an Italian menu, Chef DeWart manages to avoid the themed chain restaurant cliche of serving some version of garlic mashed potatoes with the selection of carne. The list of optional side dishes includes sauteed spinach ($5), an Italian classic. For hometown traditionalists, Rosie's signature pizzas and "hot momma bread" are still on the menu. When we learned that none of the desserts were made in-house, we opted for coffee and cappucino. The dessert list includes tiramisu ($4), key lime pie ($4), cannoli ($3) and some form of chocolate cake ($4).

The McCord Road building is completely redone and includes an intimate bar with brightly colored Venetian style glass lighting and Thursday through Saturday night, features live music. We appreciated the subdued volume of a talented Jazz trio. The main dining room is comfortable, with simple booths, tables and quietly tasteful decor. It also features a lovely ceramic tiled fireplace but the wall mural and institutional cieling tiles are tacky remnants from the pizza parlor days. With the new Rosie's patio in clear view, I could easily imagine myself dining al fresco during the summer months.

The wait staff was pleasant, but unknowledgable about the menu or proper wine service. The waitress asked, "Have you ever had this wine before?" in lieu of pouring a small taste for me to check for the condition of this particular bottle. With this preface, it is probably no surprise that she flopped the bottle onto my glass as she poured it.

In spite of the need to increase the transition to fine dining with more service staff training, this is a bold departure from the old Rosie's and, with such an ambitious chef and sous chef, it should continue to become more refined as the menu evolves.

“Glass City Gourmet” is a chronicle of one woman's attempt to cook, eat, diet and entertain with both flair and whimsy while based in Toledo, Ohio. I encourage you to read on as the "Glass City Gourmet" attempts grand recipes, samples locally owned restaurants, visits indigenous markets and humbly pursues her quest to be formally recognized as the official "Glass City Gourmet".

Saturday, April 22, 2006

It's a bird, it's a plane...

No, it's SUPER WHISK!

I will readily admit that I love my whisk and deem it a superhero of the kitchen. There is nothing that makes an amateur chef feel more classically trained than the sound of steel wires beating against a chilled metal bowl in an effort to make homemade whipped cream.

My whisk, probably made by OXO, sits quietly in my ceramic tool vase on the edge of my stove. Like Clark Kent, no one really notices the wisk until it is ready for action. Or, when it is put to work whipping up eggs for a fluffy omelette, whisking eggs and sugar together for a "Super" confection, or preparing egg whites for use in a souffle.

Alas, every superhero is subject to a form of Kryptonite! Oxidation is the enemy of the whisk. Whether it comes from being put back in its storage container before it is really dry, or from hanging out in a drawer with unsavory wet tools, rust is hard to avoid. A trip through the dishwasher is not always the best cure. When it happens to my whisk, I gently wipe it down with a wet scouring pad and rinse with hot water to return it to its original stainless steel gleam.

At the risk of sounding like a sexual cliche, bigger is better with whisks. I'm not sure why mini-whisks were developed. Other than looking really cute, they are hard to hold and make it difficult to make anything really fluffy.

If you don't already own one, I urge you to buy a big whisk and fight the forces of evil by tackling a recipe for chocolate souffle.

“Glass City Gourmet” is a chronicle of one woman's attempt to cook, eat, diet and entertain with both flair and whimsy while based in Toledo, Ohio. I encourage you to read on as the "Glass City Gourmet" attempts grand recipes, samples locally owned restaurants, visits indigenous markets and humbly pursues her quest to be formally recognized as the official "Glass City Gourmet".